Tales from a Small Island

Caye Caulker - Ever since I first came to Caye Caulker as a poor student in 1993, it has held a special place in my heart - a place where the only street signs read "Go Slow" and enjoying the breeze off the ocean seems to be an activity in and of itself.

Jerry and I came back three years ago and I wrote an article for the Boston Globe about this sweet retreat - a perfect place to escape to. This year, I strategically planned our trip so that we would finish up with more than a week to chill out in paradise.

Caye Caulker is one of the friendliest places in the world. You can't walk down the street without hearing a smattering of "good mornings" or "good nights" or the occasional "hey baby".

The other day, I was wandering around the beach, studying my map and trying to find a guesthouse or a restaurant or some such place. (In reality, that is how I spend much of my time -- not swimming, sunning, snorkeling or having fun, but rather looking at maps, inspecting hotel rooms, requesting price lists, etc etc).

Some local guy was hanging by his boat with his buddies and he gave me a "yoo hoo". "I'd like to be your friend," he invited.

I gave him a wave and kept walking. "I'm already your friend, " I said.

After a few more calls, he finally persuaded me to come over and "shake his hand". He introduced himself as "I&I", which was also the name painted on his sailboat, which is also - I was reminded - the tri-level reggae bar in town, fully equipped with hammocks and swings.

"I was in the Boston Globe once," he informed me when I told him where I'm from. "There was a picture of my boat on the front page! I have it at home."

Suddenly I remembered a photo that Jerry had taken when we were here last. It was an old beached boat, looking a little worse for wear. A bottle of Belekin beer had been placed on the bow, probably by some passer-by. Appropriate, as "Reggae Bar" was painted on the side of the boat. We did not pay too much attention at the time, but the boat undoubtedly read "I&I Reggae Bar" -- and that photo was selected to accompany my story in the Globe. And here was I&I himself.

I was about to introduce myself as the author and photographer, when I&I turned to his buddies. "Some guy is walking down the beach and takes a picture of my boat. They put this picture in the newspaper and it says it's an abandoned boat turned into a reggae bar. The guy probably never even came to the real bar!"

In fairness to me, I did not write the caption for that photo. And in fact, Jerry and I did have a drink or two at the I&I. Nonetheless...

"Still, that's good publicity for you, right?" I asked hopefully.

"Sure, now there are loads of people wandering around the beach looking for a bar on an abandoned boat."

A few days later, I got up the guts to reveal my identity. I went looking for I&I and I found him overseeing a paint job on his sailboat. I told him that I was responsible for the story and the photo (but not the caption). "I wasn't mad!" he insisted.

So tonight we are meeting for a drink at the real I&I Reggae Bar. All's well that end's well.