Wedded to the Sea

Venice, Italy - Oh Lord, keep safe your faithful mariners from storms, sudden shipwreck and the perfidious machinations of wily enemies. With these words, the doge would cast a ring into the water, symbolizing Venice's marriage to the sea.

These days, the mayor performs the ceremonial task. But the vows are nonetheless renewed every year on the Feast of the Ascension, the second Sunday in May. Venice gained control of the Dalmatian Coast in 998, an accomplishment that was commemorated with much fanfare on Ascension Day. Now, over 1000 years later, the Catholic feast is still the day to celebrate the city's role as "Queen of the Adriatic".

We missed the ring toss, but we did take a tour of the old Arsenale, which is supposed to date back to 1104. For hundreds of years, this place was the world's most advanced shipbuilding center and most powerful naval base. Even Dante referred to it in the Divine Comedy (apparently it was a hellish place to work).

The Arsenale is open to the public only on special occasions like Ascension Day. Our visit confirmed that the fortress is not really protecting any military secrets. Rather, the place has an air of industrial ruin. I think they keep it closed because there is nothing to see inside.

Aside from the wedding, Ascension Day also hosts a more recent water-themed tradition: the Vogalonga. Now in its 34th year, the "long row" is a non-competitive, long-distance regatta. According to its organizers, "the Vogalonga is an act of love for Venice and its waters, for its lagoon and its islands, for rowing and its boats." Thousands of oarsmen power their boats along the 32km route, which winds around the islands and through the canals. It's a chance to see not only the traditional racing boat, the gondolina, but also the ceremonial disdotona and the recreational diesona. (For a great overview of all the traditional Venetian boats, see www.veniceboats.com).

In its first year, the regatta was described as "the revenge of oars over engines". The wave motion caused by boats is one of the most destructive elements in Venice. Speed limits are rarely respected by motorboats, and gigantic cruise ships and ferry boats displace massive amounts of water. This constant crashing of waves and wake eats away at the foundations of the palazzi and piazzi that line the lagoon and canals. The Vogalonga is a symbolic gesture by all the oarsmen - not only to honor their maritime roots, but also to stand in solidarity with their city and its heritage.