The Eternal City

Rome, Italy - This morning we woke up in Rome. Thank goodness. If I wasn't paying attention, we might have woken up in Naples.

It was a case of over-thinking. I knew that Roma Termini is the main train station, so I had no intention of getting off when the train stopped at Roma Tiburtina. But we sat on the platform for so long that I started to get suspicious. When I finally inquired, the conductor informed me that our train would not stop at Roma Termini but would continue on straight to Napoli. So we clamored back on the train to retrieve our suitcase and then joined the crowds of commuters in Roman rush hour.

This is an amazing city. I've never been to a place that is so ancient, yet so alive. Whereas Venice seems to stand still in time, Rome exudes an air of vibrancy and dynamism, even as it is one of the oldest cities in the Western World. Bookstores, art galleries, fashion boutiques and wine bars are contemporary and cutting-edge, even while they are set in the midst of Roman ruins and Renaissance architecture.

After the obligatory visit to the Pantheon, we popped into the Chiesa di Santa Maria supra Minerva. Interesting comparison. The Pantheon was originally built in AD120 (on the site of an earlier temple). As a Roman ruin, it is exceedingly well preserved, probably because it was converted to a Christian church in 608. The place is cool, especially the huge domed roof with the skylight up top. Unfortunately, the constant crowds of tourists ensure that this ancient temple does not retain any air of reverence.

The Gothic church around the corner is a different story. Built in the 13th century, the Chiesa di Santa Maria Supra Minerva takes its name from the temple to Minerva that supposedly occupied this spot. Today the church contains the remains of Saint Catherine of Siena (minus her head, which is apparently on display in Siena). Whether Saint Catherine or Minerva (or both), somebody is watching over this lovely little church.

It is unremarkable from the outside, but the interior is so uplifting. Besides the kaleidoscope windows and fabulous frescoes, this church also contains one of Michelangelo's little known but much loved sculptures, Christ Bearing the Cross. The murmur of prayers echoes under the dramatic Gothic arches, as a reminder that this is sacred space, as it has been for thousands of years.