Contradictory Casa

Contradictory Casa

From Boston Globe Travel, January 9, 2005

Casablanca, Morocco -- Passengers landing at Mohammed V International Airport might hope to spot Ingrid Bergman and Humphrey Bogart embracing on the tarmac in a cloud of mist. But westerners who visit Casablanca for romantic reasons associated with the classic film are likely to be sorely disappointed by this brash, modern metropolis. First impressions of "Casa", as it is fondly called, are often about unkempt buildings, traffic jams and noise pollution, rather than moonlit nights and starry eyes.

The juxtaposition between Casa's romantic image and its jarring reality is just one of many contrasts that define Morocco's largest city and economic center. From religious monuments to beach cafés, from traditional culture to modern nightlife, Casablanca is a jumble of curiosities and contradictions that somehow fit together into one surprising package. Which is precisely what make this legendary place so intriguing.

The top attraction in Casablanca is the Hassan II Mosque, opened in 1993 to commemorate the former king’s 60th birthday. A hard-line autocrat who ruled for over 40 years, Hassan II was nonetheless beloved by his people, who contributed in public subscription much of the $600 million that built his namesake monument.

Using state-of-the-art architectural design, its construction employed over 6000 traditional Moroccan artisans. Its soaring minaret calls the faithful to daily prayer -- and sprays laser beams across the night sky toward Mecca. Its spectacular setting overlooking the Atlantic Ocean is the site of a former city slum, whose residents were displaced without compensation.
Symbolism aside, the mosque is remarkable. Designed by the French architect Michel Pinseau, it can hold 25,000 worshippers: 20,000 men in the vast prayer hall and 5,000 women in the balconies above. It is said to be the world's third-largest religious structure, large enough to house St. Peter's Cathedral with room to spare. The 210-meter minaret is the highest in the world.

If the exterior is French-inspired, the interior is all Moroccan: cedar from the Middle Atlas for the ceilings; marble from Agadir for the floors; and granite from Tafraoute for the columns. The best master craftsmen in the country applied their skills to produce spectacular woodcarving, tile work and stucco molding. No less impressive are the mosque's high-tech features, which include a centrally heated floor and a retractable roof.

The Hassan II Mosque is also the only mosque in Morocco that is open to non-Muslims. One-hour tours in the language of your choice include the prayer hall, ablution rooms and hammam (traditional bathhouse). It is a striking reminder that cosmopolitan Casa has not forsaken its traditional Moroccan and devout Muslim roots.

In the suburb of Oasis, the Jewish Museum of Casablanca sheds light on a less prominent religious tradition in Morocco. Judaism came to Morocco in the 15th century, when thousands of refugees fled Andalusian Spain after the Christian Reconquista. Andalusian exiles settled in Morocco's larger cities, many of which still have a mellah, or Jewish quarter.

Muslim-Jewish relations in Morocco have traditionally been cordial. Jews enjoyed the favor of the sultan and repaid him with their loyalty in times of conflict. During WWII, the monarchy protected 300,000 Jews and helped those escaping persecution in Europe to head to America.

After Israeli independence in 1948, the number of Jewish residents plummeted. In the late 1960s, Moroccans showed solidarity with fellow Arabs during the Six Day War, causing heightened tensions, and many Jews emigrated to Israel or France. By the end of the 20th century, the Jewish population in Morocco had declined from 300,000 to 3,500 residents.
Muslim-Jewish relations suffered a damaging blow on May 16, 2003, when Casablanca was rocked by a series of explosions carried out by suicide bombers. The attack was planned for five simultaneous bombings, targeting Jewish- and European-frequented locales around the city. Over 40 people were killed, including 12 attackers.

Investigators blamed Salafia Jihadia, a loosely organized radical Islamic group with suspected international ties. The bombers, however, were all young Moroccan men, aged 20-24 years, many from an impoverished district on the outskirts of Casablanca. But while these acts were carried out in the name of Allah, an overwhelming majority of Moroccan Muslims condemned the violence.

The inauguration of the Jewish Museum, just one year earlier in 2002, is symbolic of the country's commitment to remain one of the world's most tolerant Islamic societies. In fact, it is the only Jewish museum in the Muslim world. Set in a modern villa surrounded by lush gardens, museum exhibits include artifacts like historic documents, traditional clothing and ceremonial items. An excellent exhibit by Canadian photographer D.R. Crowles documents the synagogues and mellahs that remain as witness to Morocco's Jewish history.

The perfect antidote for a traveler exhausted by religious history and architecture is the beachside Boulevard de la Corniche, five kilometers southwest of the center. Lined with four-star hotels, up-market restaurants, coffee shops and nightclubs, the fashionable fairway feels closer to Mediterranean Europe than North Africa. Here young professionals jog along the boardwalk and chic Casablancans come to see and be seen. This is the hottest spot in the city for a day out in the sun or a night out on the town.

The best place to catch some rays is at one of the boulevard's beach clubs, such as Miami Plage. The private clubs charge an entrance fee, but it's worth it to find an empty strip of sand, not to mention the other amenities like swimming pools, beach umbrellas and tiki bars.

After a day at the beach, sun worshippers cool off at the Palais des Glaces, a parlor that has been scooping up ice cream for 125 years. Even for those not indulging in the creamy concoctions, it is a perfect perch from which to watch the beautiful people on the Corniche.

And what would a trendy, oceanfront neighborhood be without a few top-notch seafood restaurants with spectacular sea views? The Corniche also boasts the freshest catch of the day. Several options are gathered around the El-Hank Lighthouse at the east end of the boulevard.
At La Mer, seafood specialties are prepared with the utmost care: service is very refined and very French. The feast is served on fine china and white linens while the waves of the Atlantic crash upon the rocks below.

Another excellent restaurant nearby -- this one with an ultra-trendy lounge upstairs -- is La Petite Roche. The popular bar is strewn with pillows and lit by candles, creating a laid-back but exotic atmosphere enjoyed by a mostly Moroccan crowd. The highlight is the fantastic view across the bay to the Hassan II Mosque.

The setting captures just a few of the contradictions that define Casablanca: traditional yet trendy, decadent yet devout, cosmopolitan yet exotic. Visitors to this perplexing place do not always find what they expect, but they do delight in finding the unexpected.

Even fervent film buffs and diehard romantics. New last spring, Rick's Cafe is an elegant restaurant and piano bar in a white stucco villa opposite the port. American owner Kathy Kriger watched Casablanca hundreds of times to recreate the décor and atmosphere of the legendary café. The concept is long overdue and it's sure to be a hit -- as time goes by.