Don’t Worry ‘bout a Thing
Caye Caulker - “No Shirt, No Shoes… No Problem.” So goes the motto at Caye Caulker’s favorite restaurant and watering hole, Rasta Pasta. Nothing seems to be a problem at Rasta Pasta or, indeed, anywhere on this tiny Belizean island, where mangy dogs nap in the middle of the dirt road and suntanned cyclists pedal around them. The only traffic sign on the island instructs golf carts and bicycles to “Go slow,” a directive that is taken seriously.The one thousand residents of this tiny island have traditionally made their living from the sea, specifically from the spiny lobsters and red snapper that inhabit its warm waters. In recent years, the primary economy has shifted but it still depends on the sea: now it attracts tourists, who flock to the island for windsurfing, sea kayaking and snorkeling.
Caye Caulker offers fewer amenities than a typical Caribbean resort, but that is part of the charm of this place. Of twenty or so guesthouses, all are privately owned and most have less than a dozen rooms to let. As such, the island enjoys the friendliness of a village, as opposed to the formality of a resort.
Island residents wouldn’t have it any other way. “How you feelin’, mon?” a local asks a passerby. He is sitting in a lawn chair along the main drag, a dirt road known as Front Street, with his shirt open and dreadlocks draping across his shoulders. The sunburned, sandals-clad tourist smiles back, giving his new acquaintance a two-handed point, a la Manny Ramirez. “Alright, my friend, you feelin’ fine.”The easygoing attitude is due in part to the thriving Rastafarian culture on the Caye, which pulses to a reggae beat. If it’s not Bob Marley blaring from a boom box on the beach, it’s the latest in punta rock, an eclectic blend of Garifuna drum rhythms. Drumming groups gather on the beach and at local bars to get their Afro-Caribbean groove on. They play for themselves, but anybody is welcome to gather round and soak up the good vibes.
The quintessential Caye Caulker bar is the Lazy Lizard, “a sunny spot for shady people.” The simple, tin-roofed structure is located at the northern end of town, overlooking a swift-moving channel called the Split. The Split was formed in 1961, when Hurricane Hattie whipped through here and cut off the northern tip from the rest of the island. Now, it is one of the preferred spots on Caye Caulker for swimming and snorkeling.It’s not much as a beach – a small patch of sand strewn with rubble. But this is the center of island culture, where sunbathers lounge on a crumbling seawall, kids play with makeshift toys scavenged from the trash, and fishing boats slowly motor past.
From his perch at the bar of the Lazy Lizard, a friendly local named Greek surveys the scene. His matted hair hangs down his bare back, while a knit cap – the symbolic red, yellow, green and black – rests on top. He sips the local brew, Belikin beer. “Hey Ras,” he calls out to a tourist who has dreads to rival his own. “Stick around. We goin’ to have some drinks and check out the sun set.” Indeed, round about 6:00 pm, there is no better place to watch the fiery ball of sun, as it turns the sky an orangey-pink and drops into the clear green sea.
As in the rest of the Belize, the population of Caye Caulker is a mix of Mestizos and Creoles, plus a disproportionate percentage of Europeans and Americans (who came to visit the Caye and never left). Among the latter is Nara Belle Rosser, who moved here last year from the States. "I escaped the rat race," she laughs.
Nara conducts morning classes in kripalu yoga on a small private beach at the Iguana Reef Inn. At $200 per night, the Iguana Reef is by far the most luxurious accommodation on the island. But the yoga classes are open to anyone, and they usually attract both guests and non-guests, including a few local women. The beach faces west. Nonetheless, the breeze off the water, the fishing boats bobbing on the bay and the frigate birds soaring overhead make for an inspirational setting for sun salutations.
Caye Caulker's top tourist attraction is the barrier reef. About a mile off the island’s shore, it is the longest coral reef in the western hemisphere, much of it protected by a marine reserve. Carlos Ayala is one of several guides who take small groups out to the reef on his boat Gypsy. Carlos is a trained marine biologist, which you might not guess from his sun-streaked hair and ultra-cool demeanor. But his expertise is apparent when he talks about the reef.
"The reef is fragile," he reminds his clients. "The coral is composed of individual polyps -- living creatures. If you step on the coral, or even touch it, you destroy their protective cells. The coral becomes susceptible to invasions by algae and other bacteria."
His patrons, equipped with snorkels and masks, jump over the side of the boat and enter an unbelievable fantasy world of vibrant colors and exotic shapes. The reef itself is takes the form of a head of lettuce, or elk horns, or a brain. The life it supports is infinite, which is clear from the first descent underwater. Schools of golden-finned, blued-striped grunts swim by, seemingly inviting snorkelers to join them. The fluorescent pink and green stoplight parrotfish is not so social, but he’s not hard to find lurking under rocks. Bright blue tangs, striped angelfish and domineering bar jacks come and go. Suddenly, the fish disperse, as a slick, silver barracuda zips across the reef, then disappears into deeper waters. A sense of calm resumes on the reef.
A snorkeler frantically summons her guide when she spots the dark shadow of a shark lurking under the boat. Carlos reassures her that the nurse sharks are harmless. Indeed, later in the day, at a location known as Shark Alley, Carlos will catch a nurse shark and allow his clients to touch her soft underbelly.
Not surprisingly, most restaurant menus on Caye Caulker feature a variety of these creatures of the sea, with lobster playing the starring role. Distinguished from their New England brethren by their lack of claws, the Caribbean crustaceans are no less divine, especially when grilled and served with a Belikin beer.
The closest thing to upscale on the island is Habaneros, a thatch-roof cabana with a wide verandah. Guests dine by candlelight, feasting on “Surf & surf” – a grilled lobster tail and garlic shrimp served with a spicy papaya dipping sauce. Dessert is creamy, tart "Caye lime pie" topped with a scoop of rich, homemade frozen yogurt.
As in the rest of the Belize, the population of Caye Caulker is a mix of Mestizos and Creoles, plus a disproportionate percentage of Europeans and Americans (who came to visit the Caye and never left). Among the latter is Nara Belle Rosser, who moved here last year from the States. "I escaped the rat race," she laughs.
Nara conducts morning classes in kripalu yoga on a small private beach at the Iguana Reef Inn. At $200 per night, the Iguana Reef is by far the most luxurious accommodation on the island. But the yoga classes are open to anyone, and they usually attract both guests and non-guests, including a few local women. The beach faces west. Nonetheless, the breeze off the water, the fishing boats bobbing on the bay and the frigate birds soaring overhead make for an inspirational setting for sun salutations.
Caye Caulker's top tourist attraction is the barrier reef. About a mile off the island’s shore, it is the longest coral reef in the western hemisphere, much of it protected by a marine reserve. Carlos Ayala is one of several guides who take small groups out to the reef on his boat Gypsy. Carlos is a trained marine biologist, which you might not guess from his sun-streaked hair and ultra-cool demeanor. But his expertise is apparent when he talks about the reef.
"The reef is fragile," he reminds his clients. "The coral is composed of individual polyps -- living creatures. If you step on the coral, or even touch it, you destroy their protective cells. The coral becomes susceptible to invasions by algae and other bacteria."
His patrons, equipped with snorkels and masks, jump over the side of the boat and enter an unbelievable fantasy world of vibrant colors and exotic shapes. The reef itself is takes the form of a head of lettuce, or elk horns, or a brain. The life it supports is infinite, which is clear from the first descent underwater. Schools of golden-finned, blued-striped grunts swim by, seemingly inviting snorkelers to join them. The fluorescent pink and green stoplight parrotfish is not so social, but he’s not hard to find lurking under rocks. Bright blue tangs, striped angelfish and domineering bar jacks come and go. Suddenly, the fish disperse, as a slick, silver barracuda zips across the reef, then disappears into deeper waters. A sense of calm resumes on the reef.A snorkeler frantically summons her guide when she spots the dark shadow of a shark lurking under the boat. Carlos reassures her that the nurse sharks are harmless. Indeed, later in the day, at a location known as Shark Alley, Carlos will catch a nurse shark and allow his clients to touch her soft underbelly.
Not surprisingly, most restaurant menus on Caye Caulker feature a variety of these creatures of the sea, with lobster playing the starring role. Distinguished from their New England brethren by their lack of claws, the Caribbean crustaceans are no less divine, especially when grilled and served with a Belikin beer.
The closest thing to upscale on the island is Habaneros, a thatch-roof cabana with a wide verandah. Guests dine by candlelight, feasting on “Surf & surf” – a grilled lobster tail and garlic shrimp served with a spicy papaya dipping sauce. Dessert is creamy, tart "Caye lime pie" topped with a scoop of rich, homemade frozen yogurt.
End to end, Caye Caulker is only a few miles long, and it's a half-mile across at its widest point. For its small size, it has no shortage of things to do, from sunrise yoga to snorkeling to seafood feasts. The appeal of Caye Caulker, however, lies in the revelation that it is not necessary to do anything, except relish the sun on your face and the breeze off the sea.
If you go...
How to get there
US Airways and American Airlines fly from Boston to Belize City for about $600. Water taxis make the 45-minute from Belize City to Caye Caulker every two hours for $10 each way.
What to do
Carlos Eco Tours (tel 011-501-600-1654, Front Street, Caye Caulker) One of several guides offering trips to the reef. All-day tours - offering snorkeling three different locations and a visit to nearby Ambergris Caye - are $45 per person, including equipment and marine reserve fees.
Where to stay
Iguana Reef Inn (tel 011-501-226-0213, www.iguanareefinn.com) This small resort offers a private beach, an excellent open-air restaurant and fabulous sunset views. A dozen comfortable rooms are decorated in bright colors with rustic furniture and local artwork. Double rooms including continental breakfast are $90-140, depending on the season.
Treetops Hotel (tel 011-501-226-0240, www.treetopsbelize.com) Treetops fronts the beach on the east side of the island, allowing its rooms to catch a breeze off the sea. The place is immaculate and efficient, thanks to the watchful eye of its owners, Terry and Doris, and their Boston terriers. Spotless rooms with shared bath are $40-50, while the rooftop suite is $80-85.
Where to eat
Habaneros (tel 011-501-226-0487) The wide verandah overlooking Caye Caulker's main drag is a romantic spot for dinner. Choose from a rotating menu of seafood specials and delicious desserts. Reservations are recommended. Meals $20-30 per person.
Rasta Pasta (tel 011-501-206-0356) Come for lunch and stay all afternoon at this friendly beachfront restaurant and bar. Specialties of the house include huge seafood burritos and spicy ginger beer. Meals $10-15 per person.
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