Wednesday, March 26, 2008

It's all Greek to me...

Syracuse, Sicily - First, let me observe that the food is better in Sicily. Maybe this is a north-south thing - even Venetians have told me that the produce is fresher and more flavorful in the south. Also, the southerners invented - and have really perfected - the art of tomato sauces. And Sicilan chefs use nuts - pinenuts, walnuts and almonds - in ways you never imagined. So when I ordered spada alla sircusana, it turned out to be grilled swordfish with a tomato sauce with capers and almonds - delicious!

And the cheese... ravioli, panini and of course cannoli, all made with the freshest, smoothest ricotta. Note to self: eat as many canoli as possible while in Sicily.

Now that we have that out of the way, let's get on with exploring Syracuse. Set on the peninsula of Ortygia, which juts out into the Ionian Sea, Syracuse dates to 734 BC. Its Greek heritage is still evident in the ruins that are scattered about the city... a Temple to Apollo, the Castle of Euryalus,  Even the centerpiece Cathedral was built on the foundation of a Greek Temple that stood on the site. So the Doric columns that line the sanctuary are the same columns that upheld the Temple of Athena, dating back to the 5th century BC.

 Equally impressive is the Greek theater that is on the outskirts of town. It is still used for summer theater! I know some of my readers are fans of classical comedies... consider a trip to Syracuse to see them performed in them performed in their element!

 With the decline of the Greek Empire, the Romans moved in, and they also built an amphiteater. It's not clear why they could not use the perfectly good Greek theater up the road. Perhaps it was not suitable for the animal slaughters and gladiator fights that would be held in this arena.

From here, we head inland. Next stop: Noto.

    

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