Sicilian Baroque

Ragusa, Sicily - In 1693, Sicily experienced a massive earthquake that flattened many of the towns in the southeastern part of the island. They were all rebuilt by the same architect - a bloke named Rosario Gagliardi, whose Baroque inclinations are reflected in the swirls and twirls that adorn every facade; the monumental porticos flanked by columns; and - of course - the massive domes that crown the oversized cathedrals.

All that pomp and circumstance - I could take or leave it. But I adore the tiny details: the figures of philosophers and poets that perch atop the pillars, as if they are still proclaiming some wise words; the grotesque faces that peek out from from otherwise unadorned edifices; and the whimsical creatures that crouch under the eaves or bear the weight of the balconies on their backs.

We spent one day in Noto, which is considered to be one of the finest Baroque towns in Sicily. Nonetheless, there is not a lot going on in Noto, aside from the gi-normous cathedral and the shops stocked with Sicilian ceramics. I think the reason to stop in Noto is to study the many beasts and beauties that inhabit the Palazzo Nicoloci. This baroque building is adorned by at least half a dozen balconies, each supported by a team of carved creatures, whether gargoyle or gryphon, siren or sage. We spent an hour admiring the architecture and snapping photos; but then we were done. "Thanks for Noto!" Jerry said as we drove out of town.

Then we were on our way to Ragusa, another ancient city that was wiped out in 1693. After the earthquake, the town was rebuilt further up the mountain. But the old part of the city - Ragusa Iblea - was never abandoned. In 1730, Gagliardi came to town and built his signature spectacular cathedral, and redesigned the rest of the city around it. Today, Ragusa Iblea is a jumble of narrow streets and sand-colored structures that seem to be built on top of each other, climbing up the steep hillside. Driving into town, it looks like the city was carved out of the side of the mountain.

From here, we head further inland. first stop: Piazza Amerina and the Villa del Casale. Second stop: Enna and the Lombardy Castle.