Moscow's Image Problem: Who is to Blame?

Somerville, Massachusetts - Every time I return to Russia I am forced to recall my rocky history with the Motherland. Every time I apply for a visa, I wonder how much research that visa officer is going to do before he decides whether or not I am worthy to return. Every time, I sit on pins and needles, hoping that nobody is keeping track of my past battles with the tax police and other Russian bureaucracies.

This time around, I was careful not to state explicitly my mission in Moscow. I certainly did not mention my affiliation with Lonely Planet. That's the last thing I need... to remind the powers-that-be about my previous efforts to promote their fair city. I am hoping to sneak in under their radar, so they have no idea that the Moscow City Guide is being updated.

That's because my last update went over like a bag of bricks with the city officials. I can't explain why... nobody loves Moscow more than I do. Nobody is more enthusiastic about the history, the art, the nightlife, the dining... my god! I even love the dining in Moscow! That is nothing short of an irrational attachment.

Nonetheless, the city officials did not pick up on this enthusiasm when they perused the Moscow City Guide.

Apparently, in the summer of 2006, Moscow appeared at the top of two Top-Ten lists: Most Expensive Cities and Rudest Cities (neither of which had anything to do with Lonely Planet, these were random polls conducted by various research firms that were probably later banned from the city streets). In response, the city administration launched a public relations campaign, which - for some reason - entailed an all-out attack on my well-researched, purely-positive guidebook.

First, a report appeared on Russian Center TV (the Moscow-government-run TV station). "The guidebook was published by the popular publishing house Lonely Planet. Those who develop tourism in the Russian capital were shocked by recommendations given by the authors. They had never read such things about Moscow before." The report goes on to complain about warnings against crime, prostitution, fake vodka, AIDS and mites in Moscow.

Mites? Excuse me? I'm not sure what book they were reading. Okay, the Moscow City Guide does make a passing mention of the very real dangers of drinking fake vodka and engaging in unprotected sex. But it hardly dwells on these issues; we assume our readers are responsible adults.

That said, my book does not gloss over the potential dangers and annoyances of traveling to Moscow. Travelers need to be aware that crime is on the rise in Moscow so they can take the proper precautions. This is not a question of "image"; it is a question of fact. Just ask the Moscow Prosecutor, who had held a press conference on this topic earlier that same week.

This was my favorite comment by an Intourist official: "How could they write that prostitutes were standing on every corner in Moscow? ... This guide suggests that one can meet a loose woman in Moscow, but this is not true!" First of all, the guide does not make a big deal about prostitution in Moscow. It certainly does not say that prostitutes are standing on every corner. But c'mon - I'm not saying anything about the moral turpitude of the moskovski devushki - but if that tourism official is not aware that prostitution is a thriving industry in Moscow, perhaps he ought to get out more.

Despite its inaccuracies, this story spread like wildfire in the Russian press. The Russians love to blame foreigners for their troubles. My contacts sent my stories that were in all the major newspapers: Izvestiya, Moscow News, even the People's Daily (in China!).

Still, we might have ignored the exaggerated assertions. Until the story was picked up by The Guardian, which is one of the major daily newspaper in the UK. You can read the Guardian's article here.

Anyway, Lonely Planet responded, saying that "Lonely Planet is overwhelmingly positive about travel to Moscow. Traveler numbers to Moscow are increasing, and deservedly so. Our aim in publishing a guide to Moscow is to encourage more travelers to go there and to experience all that Moscow has to offer.”

I was also invited to respond, and I was quoted in a few articles. This is from Russian Newsweek (my translation!): "The guidebook was written by American Mara Vorhees, a professional traveler who, of course, now is indignant about the claims of the Moscow television station, but nonetheless demonstrates a love of the city. This `enemy of Moscow' seems to be quite an enthusiastic person, like those foreigners who live for a long time in the Russian capital without needing to."

That's me, one of those foreigners who live for a long time in Russia even though I don't have to!

Anyway, we didn't hear much about it after that, except one nice letter from a Lonely Planet reader:

"As a resident of Moscow for the past nearly 2 years, I just wanted to send you an e-mail of support in the face of the absurd comments made by the bureaucrats in Moscow. It is quite obvious that they have never read the book. It is also quite obvious that these people have no sense of humor. We found the previous Moscow book really useful...

If the Russian authorities were really keen to do something about their fairly negative perception among tourists, then they would be wise to shake up their immigration staff, tell their police to stop harassing tourists..., put the signs and station names in the metro also in latin script ... and generally make people feel a bit more welcome." Amen, Fran!

As far as I know, that was the end of the war between Lonely Planet and the Moscow city administration. And I have no idea what happened to the city's ill-fated PR campaign.

But I just got my visa in the mail. So I can breathe a sigh of relief (I can do my job!) And whether the city officials like it or not, I will be back this summer, telling more truths and spouting more superlatives about mad Moscow!